The current devil’s-food cake with marshmallow frosting looks like a shaggy mastodon. Adding yet more depth: Uskokovic has ditched refined white sugar altogether, in favor of a molasses-tinged, coarse-grained type and cones of Indian jaggery. The imaginative pastry chef Miro Uskokovic excels at making irresistible towering cakes that approximate the look of classic Betty Crocker Americana, but happen to be fascinatingly unique: Consider the toffeelike banana-and-Concord-grape number with hazelnut crunch another sports vivid green matcha layers cut with jammy-strawberry stripes. It should be the official cake of spring.ĩ9 Gansevoort St., nr. A current beauty in pale-honey buttercream is made with honeycomb and pistachios, and happens to be gluten-free. ![]() A recent hibiscus-buttercream-coated buttermilk-cocoa cake filled with raspberry compote is an impressive demonstration of a tricky flavor balance, and in particular, knowing when to hold back on the sugar. Last fall, amber-brown, caramelized peaches crowned a gorgeous study of ochre layer cake with plush bourbon buttercream. ![]() There’s also a nice amount of salt.Įlsewhere, Ovenly’s birthday cake has rainbow sprinkles embedded right in the frosting. This is good, because while sugary frostings or gloopy puddings mar nearly all current iterations, Agatha Kulaga and Erin Patinkin decided to go in another direction: They added Brooklyn Brewery stout, which deepens the unimpeachably chocolaty layers - rendered midnight-black with cocoa from Guittard - with an almost fermented, fantastically malty flavor. It’s funny, then, that Ovenly’s version doesn’t adhere to the technical specs of any Brooklyn Blackout Cake of yore. West St., Greenpoint 34Ĭakes generally don’t have a point of view, but that’s really the best way to describe Brooklyn Blackout, once made by the famed Ebinger’s Bakery, but now in a wonderfully updated form by Ovenly.
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